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Have you exfoliated lately?

Have you exfoliated lately?

Social media always makes the mundane seem new and fresh. Case in point: exfoliation, the process of removing dead cells from the outer layer of skin. Anyone who’s scrolled through TikTok lately might be convinced that this tried-and-true skincare approach can transform something old—say, our aging epidermis—into like-new skin.

But a Harvard dermatologist says that’s asking too much.

“I don’t think exfoliation is going to get rid of anyone’s wrinkles,” says Rachel Reynolds, MD, interim director of dermatology at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center. While exfoliation definitely offers benefits, it can also irritate and inflame skin if you don’t do it carefully or use tools or chemicals your skin can’t tolerate.

How is exfoliation done?

There are two main methods of exfoliation: mechanical and chemical. Each has specific benefits.

Mechanical (or physical) exfoliation involves physically removing dead skin cells using a tool like a brush or loofah, or an exfoliator with abrasive particles. “Mechanical exfoliators can improve the skin’s shine by removing a layer of dead skin that can make it look dull,” says Dr. Reynolds. “And they can help open up pores a little, which can reduce some types of acne.”

Chemical exfoliation uses chemicals—often alpha and beta hydroxy acids or salicylic acid—to liquefy dead skin cells. “Chemical exfoliators work on a more microscopic level to dissolve excess skin cells and reduce uneven pigmentation at the surface of the skin,” she explains. “They also restore skin’s shine, improve acne, and give skin a little more glow.”

Why are exfoliators advertised so often in skin care products?

Perhaps hundreds of commercially available skin care products—from body washes to cleansers to face masks—are labeled as exfoliators, notes Dr. Reynolds. However, she is skeptical why such a wide range of products promotes this feature so prominently.

“It is beneficial for a cosmetics company to sell consumers more products from a skincare range,” she says. “But buyer beware, because this is a completely unregulated market and cosmetics companies can make claims that don’t have to be backed up in actual clinical trials.”

Do we need to exfoliate our skin?

No. “If you don’t exfoliate, nothing will happen – you’ll just walk around with blemished or slightly dry skin, which is irrelevant except for cosmetic reasons,” says Dr. Reynolds.

“Nobody needs to exfoliate, but it can be helpful to exfoliate the arms and legs,” she adds. “As you get older, these areas become drier than other parts of the body, and people notice that there is a lot more flaky skin there, and it almost looks like fish scales.”

This phenomenon may or may not be a sign of keratosis pilaris. It’s a common but harmless skin condition characterized by rough, bumpy “chicken skin” on the upper arms and thighs. Physical peels are a good first choice because keratosis pilaris covers areas where the skin is tougher than that of the face, she says. But it’s OK to use a cleanser or lotion with a chemical peel instead. Both types can improve skin texture and appearance.

Can exfoliating harm our skin?

Yes. Both physical and chemical peeling techniques can do more harm than good, depending on various factors. Sensitive skin is more likely to become irritated or inflamed by peels. And overdoing it—whether by rubbing too hard or using a product with higher acid concentrations—can trigger irritant contact dermatitis, which can look red, sore, and cracked.

“Physical exfoliation that’s too vigorous can also worsen inflammatory acne,” says Dr. Reynolds. “Plus, exfoliation can make you more susceptible to sunburn.”

What are the safest ways to exfoliate?

Dr. Reynolds recommends chemical peels over physical options. “Sometimes the abrasives in those apricot peels, for example, can go too far, irritating the skin and causing inflammation,” she says.

She offers these additional tips for exfoliating safely:

If you’ve never exfoliated before, start with a simple washcloth to see how well your skin responds to gentle attempts at physical exfoliation.

Then try gentler chemical peels, such as lower concentrations of hydroxy acids or salicylic acid. WorkOnly go for stronger concentrations if necessary.

If you want to get rid of stubborn skin problems like melasma (brown spots on the face) or comedonal acne (small, skin-colored bumps, often on the forehead or chin), consider a chemical peel from a dermatologist.

Don’t exfoliate every day. “Do it two or three times a week at most,” advises Dr. Reynolds. “Your skin needs to rejuvenate between peels.”

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